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OLDBILOXI 

The First Settlement in Mississippi 

An Address Delivered at the 

X^ ^7 3 3/ 

Dedication of a Monument, Commemorating the 
Settlement of Old Biloxi and Fort Maurepas 

April 8, 1920 



BY 
DUNBAR ROWLAND, LL D. 

State Historian of Mississippi 



HEDERMAN BROS., JACKSON, MISS. 



OLD BILOXI 

The First Settlement in Mississippi 

An Address Delivered at the 

Dedication of a Monument, Commemorating the 
Settlement of Old Biloxi and Fort Maurepas 



With the Compliments of the 

MISSISSIPPI HISTORICAL SOCIETY, 

DUNBAR ROWLAND, 

Secretary. 

The Capitol, 

Jackson, Mississippi. 
August 7, 1920. 



BY 
DUNBAR ROWLAND, LL. D. 

State Historian of Mississippi 



F34? 



Tt." •' ^• 
OCT 18 1!)2a 



^ 






OLD BILOXI, THE FIRST SETTLEMENT IN MISSISSIPPI 

An address delivered on the occasion of the dedication of a 
monument commemorating the settlement of old Biloxi and Fort 
Maurepas, April 8, 1920, the two hundred and twenty-first an- 
niversary of the first settlement in Mississippi. 

Mr. Cliairman, Daughters of the American Revolution, Ladies 
and. Gentlemen: 

Let me at the outset express to this impressive gathering of 
patriotic and State-loving Mississippians, who have joined hands 
with the Daughters of the American Revolution in celebrating 
our natal day, my deep appreciation of the courteous invitation 
to be present and to speak on this most interesting occasion. I 
assure you that I count it a high honor to have a place on your 
program. It gives me very real pleasure to also have this op- 
portunity of expressing my sincere appreciation of the encour- 
agement which you have always given the State Historical De- 
partment in the preservation and publication of the notable his- 
tory which our forefathers made, and in creating and stimulating 
a true historical spirit throughout the State. 

To the Daughters of the American Revolution of this State 
I wish to say that I congratulate you on your loving, well di- 
rected and effective efforts to keep alive in the hearts of this and 
future generations the deepest veneration for the patriot soldier 
of the American Revolution and for his great history. This has 
been your primary purpose, but you have not been unmindful of 
other historical activities. Your Society is the pioneer in the 
w^ork of marking early historical sites in Mississippi. You have 
been busy in erecting memorials to commemorate the notable 
events in our history from the Tennessee line to these blue Gulf 
waters. Through your efforts travelers can follow the first 
great trail that brought us much of our early population, and we 
thank you in the name of the Historical Society for this evidence 
of your devotion to the high ideals that have placed us among the 
leading civilizations of the world. 



— 4 — 

But however important have been all other occasions in 
commemorating events in our history, the event which we have 
assembled here today to celebrate is the most important. On 
this beautiful Biloxi Bay, April 8, 1699, history chronicles its 
first fact in connection with the settlement of our State. It was 
here two hundred and twenty-one years ago that the adventurous 
and gallant spirits of France laid the foundation stones of what 
is now Mississippi, and established the capitol of a domain whose 
territory, according to the best authorities, covered that part of 
North America bounded on the south by the Gulf of Mexico, on 
the east by Carolina and part of Canada, on the west by New 
Mexico, on the north in part by Canada and extending as far as 
the luiknown lands on Hudson Bay. It is no small honor to 
have been the seat of government of such a vast empire known 
as the Province of Louisiana which is sometimes referred to as 
Ancient Louisiana. It was often, too, in that far distant day 
called the Mississippi Country. 

If I shall be able to present for your entertainment some- 
thing of the historical importance and significance of this partic- 
ular locality in the dawn of our history, the struggles that went 
on here for existence, and the establishment of a Christian civ- 
ilization, if I can with you be stirred by its past romance, and 
feel the influence of its charm and poetic beauty, I shall return 
to my daily tasks with the keenest sense of a day well spent. And 
it is good for a people to sometimes have Red Letter Days of 
their own making. 

When I speak of the historical import of this first coloniz- 
ing effort in the history of the Lower South I do so with a full 
sense of its reality. We of the Southwest have ever been mod- 
est in claiming our rightful place in the colonial history of Amer- 
ica, but we can with truth say that but for the founding of the 
Louisiana Province half of its history would never have been 
written. And the history of this entire Gulf Coast makes not 
only an important but a highly romantic and pleasant story. 
The romance that lingers here, the traditions that saturate and 
color its history, will ever throw about it a charm for all who 
breathe its atmosphere. That we see and cherish the beauty in 
the early fashioning of our civilization, and feel an epic force in 



— 5 — 

the story of our fathers as it leads from the wilderness to the 
farm, from the settlement to the city, and from outdoor worship 
to the temple is characteristic of the temperament of our people ; 
that we have made so little of it in outward expression is a fact 
that we are just beginning to realize. But all of this goodly 
heritage belongs to us, is a part of us, and our story will only be 
half told if we fail to record it. The history of the exploration 
and colonization of this entire region is one of gripping fascina- 
tion, and of all of that early company of pathfinders through the 
mighty waters and dim forests of America, none has left more 
stirring chapters in its history than the heralds who took their 
way through its vast interior or anchored their ships in its sunny 
harbor. Long before our northern shores had attracted the 
hardy seamen, the valley of the Great River had haunted their 
dreams of other worlds. 

The springs of our civilization unlike those of Asia and Eu- 
rope and Africa lie revealed. We can accurately trace the mak- 
ing of our civilization from the weak settlements of Jamestown, 
Plymouth Rock, Roanoke Island, Charleston, St. Augustine, Bi- 
loxi. Mobile, New Orleans and Natchez and other footholds that 
remain to remind us of the first spirits who laid the foundations 
in the civilization of this great Republic. In these bold and ad- 
venturous efforts to conquer and master an unknown continent 
inhabited by savage tribes three of the most powerful nations of 
Europe took the leading role. Their adventurous and indomitable 
seamen and soldiers, and ardent, faithful priests unveiled the sec- 
rets of an unknown world, occupied its primeval forests, traced 
and mapped out its streams, planted their Christian emblems, 
built their forts and claimed all things for their own. Their con- 
tention for the mighty prize was fierce and bitter, but the under- 
lying current for world dominion by the fittest races went stead- 
ily on. Spain had won imperishable glory by the discovery of 
a Western Hemisphere, later England with her dogged determi- 
nation and known aspiration for colonization soon possessed the 
Atlantic seaboard, France had occupied Canada and the Valley 
of the Great River was sought by all. 

In the contest of these three great nations of Europe for the 
occupation and control of the Mississippi Valley, Spain slept on 



— 6 — 

her rights of discovery and exploration, and in 1682 France un- 
der the leadership of La Salle, took possession of the entire val- 
ley under the authority and in the name of Louis XIV., King 
of France, and it is to the bold daring and initiative of the 
French that we owe the beginning of civilized life in the Lower 
South. In our pride of Anglo-Saxon achievement we should not 
forget this, and in acknowledging our obligation to the French 
we feel grateful that in our infancy we were influenced by such 
a race, and that through it our institutions have felt the impress 
of the noblest form of civilization. In this connection may I 
express the satisfaction which I, in common with you, feel in the 
fact that we owe the founding of our State to the nation which 
produced Martel, Napoleon, Moliere, Hugo, Dumas, David, La- 
fayette, JofPre and Foch, and thousands of other spirits of a like 
nature. The blood of France is a blend of the Roman, the 
Gaul, the Celt, the Norman, the Iberian and Basque, and the 
qualities and characteristics of these great races have made the 
men and women of France a people of genius, culture, heroism 
and endurance, and the possessors of all other marvelous virtues 
known to men. 

One of the great lessons that history teaches is that it is only 
when nations are animated by their highest ideals that they are 
sound in thought and deed, and their true story can always be 
traced in the ideals that control them. It is to her cherished 
ideals, her sentiment, her beneficent laws, her culture and aspi- 
ration and her love of liberty and justice — the etrnal verities of 
her civilization, that France owes its preservation today. From 
the sacred heights of Verdun and from the consecrated fields of 
the Marne, she looks with steady eye and undaunted courage to 
the future. Noble Mother of a great, historic race! we salute 
her today and pay homage to her as one of the most faithful con- 
servators of civilization. Since the time of Roland and his pala- 
dins beautiful, enduring France has been a supreme guardian of 
freedom and liberty among the races of the world. In our own 
time of trial when we were fighting for the etrnal principles of 
freedom and self government, she stood by our side with sword 
and buckler and when dark days came upon her we sent our best 
and bravest to help her drive the foe from her sacred soil. 
Brothers we are and brothers we shall ever remain. 



_ 7 — 

France in the fulfilment of her purpose to control and col- 
onize the Mississippi Valley was fortunate in having at her call 
two masterful super-men, Robert Cavalier de la Salle, whose en- 
during fame lies in his voyage to the mouth of the Mississippi 
River in 1682 and Pierre le Moyne de Iberville, the great found- 
er of the State of Mississippi. Of all the first colonizers of the 
New World none can surpass the founder of our State. Capt. 
John Smith and Miles Standish were small in ability and prow- 
ess in comparison with Iberville. He was the third of eleven 
sons of the brave Charles le Moyne, Seigneur of Longueil, Lower 
Canada, all of whom were distinguished soldiers of France. Born 
at Montreal, July 20, 1661, he entered the service of his country 
at an early age. In his life of our hero, Charles B. Reed has, 
this to say: "Pierre le Moyne Sieur d 'Iberville was the third 
and most interesting member of the remarkable Le Moyne fam- 
ily. From boyhood he was distinguished for his energetic and 
hardy spirit and his extraordinary force of character. As the 
children grew up, the family feeling became very strong, but all 
recognized and bowed to the qualities of leadership which Pierre 
possessed for he early showed his restless and monarchial dis- 
position. ' ' He was said to be a proud, high spirited, impulsive 
lad, loyal to his brothers and friends and intensely patriotic. In 
a time and community which largely reflected such life he excell- 
ed in all rude sports and games. His biographer records that 
he was ' ' resolute and ready to espouse a cause and having accept- 
ed an issue he, far more than his brothers, was willing, nay eager 
to pursue it to the bitter end." This latter quality, however, 
was very apparent in his younger brother Bienville in his pun- 
ishment of the Indians when Governor of Old Biloxi. But pow- 
erful as these traits were in the brothers, Iberville was more ro- 
mantic and was possessed of more personal magnetism and charm 
than Bienville and both the Biloxi and Natchez Indians were 
said to have greatly admired him. His biographer gives a 
charming picture of his youth when leading his brothers in all 
manly sports usual to pioneer life. "In his fortitude, endur- 
ance, courage and quick intelligence lay the claims of leadership 
which all accepted. Thus in warm emulation but definitely un- 
der his guidance, they hunted in pairs, and one or more of the 
brothers in an associated or subordinate capacity was found in 



— 8 — 

every expedition made by Iberville." Possessing qualities that 
made leaders of men, the le Moyne brothers impressed themselves 
upon their time and history, and were called and known as the 
Canadian Maccabees. Iberville is described as having even in 
youth a fine commanding figure. With dashing blue eyes and 
flowing tawny hair, he was a most perfect specimen of the 
French Canadian. 

After completing his education in Canada Iberville was 
recommended by Frontenac, the Lieutenant-General and Gover- 
nor of New France, for appointment as midshipman in the 
French navy. He was drilled for five years in all the naval 
science of the age which made him a highly accomplished officer. 
This was the beginning of a career the pursuit of which made 
him at the age of thirty-eight one of the great founders of Col- 
onial America. To him belongs the unique distinction that he 
courted renown and carried to victory the banners of France 
upon each of the widely separated waters of Hudson Bay, the 
Gulf of St. Lawrence and the Gulf of Mexico. After a bril- 
liant career in the wars with England and Holland he returned 
to France in 1697 and was created a Knight of St. Louis in recog- 
nition of his eminent services. 

During the visit to the Court of France Iberville took occa- 
sion to urge the necessity of prompt action in sending a fleet to 
the Gulf of Mexico to take possession and plant a colony in 
Louisiana which had been neglected since the death of La Salle 
in 1687. Accordingly orders were issued by Louis XIV. for the 
dispatch of an expedition of colonists to the Mississippi Country 
of which Iberville was given command with the title of Governor- 
General. 

France was now to play her part in the great game of 
strategy with Spain and England for the control of the Missis- 
sippi Basin. Forts and settlements on the Lower Mississippi 
and the Gulf of Mexico would provide Canada with a double out- 
let to the sea, and secure to France the free navigation of these 
important waters, and the English colonies on the Atlantic 
would be hemmed in between the great French possessions of 
Canada and Louisiana. It was an undertaking of the greatest en- 



— 9 — 

terprise and statesmanship. Spain, after two centuries of oppor- 
tunity had failed to seize the control of the Lower Mississippi and 
had fastened her grasp only on the islands and mainland to the 
South. France, in actual possession of the coveted territory, 
could ignore her title based on early discoveries. The need of 
haste, however, was apparent. Spain was already in possession 
of the Bay of Pensacola and was engaged in establishing a colony 
there. To Iberville was given the great task of bringing to pass 
the dream which had filled the King 's mind for years — to secure 
to France this garden spot of the world. 

Without going into the details of Iberville's arrangements 
for accomplishing the great object he had in view we take up at 
once the important incidents of his voyage. His squadron set 
sail from Brest on the 24th of October, 1698. It was composed 
of two frigates each carrying thirty guns and two smaller ves- 
sels bearing about two hundred colonists and a company of ma- 
rines. Among the colonists were many women and children, 
the families of the soldiers who had been offered liberal induce- 
ments to join the expedition. There were also farmers and me- 
chanics and a full supply of provisions, and all necessary imple- 
ments were provided. When they arrived in the bay called by 
the Spaniards Santa Maria de Galvez de Pensacola on January 
28, 1699, they did not deem it prudent to remain in the harbor as 
two Spanish frigates were already there, and the Spaniards had 
been engaged four months in planting a colony. Iberville 
writes: "This is certainly a most beautiful port equal at least 
to that of Brest and has been lost to us by delay. ' ' 

After exploring the Bay of Mobile and Dauphine, Horn and 
Dog Islands the squadron finally came to anchor in the harbor 
south of Ship Island which they called Surgeres in honor of one 
of the French commanders who discovered it. It was the in- 
tention of Iberville to locate his colony on the Mississippi River. 
He learned from the Biloxi Indians of a large river to the west- 
ward which they called the Malabouchia and inferring that it 
was the wonderful stream about which there had been so many 
strange stories, he decided to leave his vessels in safe anchorage 
and go in search of it. He thus describes the discovery of the 
mouth of the Mississippi: "At this moment we perceived a pass 



— 10 — 

between two banks which appeared like islands. We saw that 
the water had changed ; tasted and found it fresh, a circumstance 
that gave us great consolation in that moment of consternation. 
Soon after we beheld the thick, muddy water. As we advanced 
we saw the passes of the river, three in number and the current 
of the stream was such that we could not descend it without diffi- 
culty although the wind was fair and favorable." He further 
records: ''On Tuesday the 3rd, mass was performed and a Te 
Deum sung in gratitude for our discovery of the entrance of the 
Mississippi." He ascended the river one hundred leagues but 
failed to find a suitable location for his colony. Returning to 
Ship Island, he proceeded to explore the mainland in the vicin- 
ity of the island. He finally decided to locate the colony on an 
elevated site on the northeast shore of the Bay of Biloxi where 
there was a narrow channel of deep water leading to a safe and 
comfortable harbor between the mainland and an island, and ex- 
tending back to a beautiful little bay. 

A decision having been made the colonists went to work and 
cleared a place for the fort upon a strip of silvery sand among 
the beautiful live oaks and magnolias for which this coast is so 
famous. May I say by way of digression that I know of no 
coast in all the world where such beautiful trees grown down to 
the very water's edge. The plan of the fort was laid out and 
the work of erection begun, but the work went on too slowly for 
the impatient Iberville. The colonists were re-inforced by men 
from the crew and the boats were constantly busy carrying men 
and material while the people on shore dug, built and planted. 
At length the work which was begun on April 8, 1699, was com- 
pleted on May 1, and named Fort Maurepas in honor of Count 
de Maurepas, Minister of Marine. In the meantime, the boats 
were actively engaged transporting the powder, guns and am- 
munition, as well as the live stock, such as cattle, hogs, turkeys 
and other fowls. 

The fort was made with four bastions, two of them squared 
logs from two to three feet thick, placed one upon the other with 
embi-asures for portholes and a ditch surrounding it. The oth- 
er two bastions were stockaded with heavy timbers, it taking 



— 11 — 

four men to lift one of them. The fort was defended by twelve 
cannon. 

The infant colony having been established Iberville sailed 
for France on May 3 to report the discovery of the mouth of the 
Mississippi, location of his colony and the general success of his 
undertaking. Sauvole and Bienville were left in command of 
the fort with a garrison of seventy men and boys. 

Biloxi, as the settlement at Fort Maurepas was known in all 
correspondence, was founded at a time when France was the 
most powerful nation of Europe. Louis XIV. had reached the 
highest pinnacle of his brilliant reign. His word was law not 
only in France but in many of the surrounding nations. He was 
ambitious to extend his empire beyond the sea. He had been 
told that Louisiana had a climate like that of France where his 
thrifty people could engage in the same industries and lead the 
same life that they did at home. With two such leaders as 
Iberville and Bienville to carry out his plans he believed 1 hat his 
venture in the New World would be successful. With iliese 
hopes animating the mind of the king Biloxi was founded, and 
for sixty-four years France devoted herself to the settlement <ind 
development of Louisiana. The effort was attended hy suffer- 
ing, sorrow, famine and death. The story of every colonizing 
attempt in America is something the same. Biloxi experienced 
all the ills known to infant colonies. Sauvole, the gallant young 
commander, depressed and sick at heart by the many misfortunes 
that afflicted the colony, fell a victim to yellow fever and his 
ashes make sacred forever this soil. In despair at times the help- 
less handful strove to maintain themselves ; seed planted prompt- 
ly sprouted and then withered and died in the hot sun. Droughts 
came and burned up the sparse fields and gardens, and famine 
followed quickly. Water was so scarce that the streams dried up 
and great suffering from want of it ensued until a bountiful 
deep spring was finally discovered. Plagues of snakes were 
experienced and alligators were killed at the very gate of the 
fort. We cannot enumerate the privations and perils of the 
colonists. But it was also a life of romantic adventure and hero- 
ism and though their fortunes were battered, their stern spirits 
were never wholly baffled. 



— 12 — 

Having secured to the king and his country the great Val- 
ley of the Mississippi, Iberville determined to leave his brothers 
to guard and protect and develop the infant colony that he 
might make the claim of France more secure. Feeling that it 
was only a question of superior prowess as to whether England 
or France would dominate and become supreme in the New 
World, in a last great effort to crush the English, he gathered 
about him a splendid fleet and planned to attack every British 
stronghold between Charleston and Boston. But, alas, while at 
Havana preparing to go to sea once more, he was seized with a 
second attack of yellow fever and died July 9, 1706. 

The administrative center of the colonly remained at Old Bi- 
loxi until 1701, when the headquarters were transferred to Mobile 
Bay. About the year 1717, the harbor at Dauphine Island had 
become choked with sand and it was determined to make Ship 
Island the principal anchorage for ships from France and to 
erect a new fort upon the mainland opposite the island. The 
exact site of the new fort was one league west of Old Biloxi op- 
posite the anchorage of Ship Island and the settlement was call- 
ed New Biloxi and the fort called Fort St. Louis. In 1719, the 
capitol of the Mississippi Country was removed from Mobile 
back to Old Biloxi. On November 13, 1721, the capitol was re- 
moved to Fort St. Louis or New Biloxi where it remained until 
1722 when headquarters were removed to New Orleans. 

We have in the State Historical Department complete tran- 
scripts of the original French archives in the Ministry of the 
Colonies in Paris, concerning the dominion of France over Mis- 
sissippi and Louisiana, from May 12, 1678, when the King of 
France gave his royal permission to La Salle to discover the west- 
ern part of New France, to November 22, 1763, the date of a docu- 
ment which gives the plan and estimation of Fort Conde when 
given over to the English. 

In course of time, the rivalry of France and England became 
so intense that they could no longer remain at peace in the oc- 
cupation of North America. War was declared, France lost, 
and the great Louisiana Province east of the Mississippi by 
the treaty of 1763 became an English possession. 

From 1699 to 1763, and even long after the English occu- 



— 13 — 

pation, French manners, customs and modes of life prevailed in 
Mississippi, with only such changes as the necessities of the sit- 
uation required. The old records give a perfect picture of the 
official life of those in authority as well as of the daily life of the 
people. Governor Bienville writes to the Minister of the Col- 
onies that the people are in distress for want of provisions and 
again that the soldiers are without clothing. It is recommended 
that cattle be sent to feed the people. In another letter of 
March 1, 1707, we have the complaint of a young French girl 
that Governor Bienville would not allow her to marry a young 
major of the French garrison. We are not advised that the 
officer eloped with his girl in defiance of such social and official 
tyranny, but if he was as gallant as the proverbial Frenchman, 
in all probability he did. The Minister of the Colonies is grave- 
ly informed, June 2, 1710, that "the Paris girls are a good-for- 
nothing lot," and that "farmer wives are wanted." It seems 
that they wanted "the files a la cossette" home-makers rather 
than dress models, two things for which France is rather famous. 

We cannot honor too greatly the Le Moyne family, for to 
them is due the credit in the making of our earliest history, since 
all of this remarkable "brotherhood" were associated with the 
illustrious Iberville in the colonization of Louisiana, with the 
exception of Maricourt, who remained in Canada with his father. 
Bienville especially must be numbered among our heroes. For 
forty years, he served his country well and faithfully and laid 
the foundation for the Paris of America, in the historic old city 
of New Orleans. His remains rest in the beautiful cemetery 
of Montmartre. But it is to his illustrious brother, Iberville, 
warrior, conqueror, explorer, and colonizer that we must ac- 
knowledge our greatest indebtedness. His name will always 
light up the pages of French history in America, In the rec- 
ords of the first colonial possession of France in the newly dis- 
covered continent, he will always rank as the first great Ca- 
nadian. In our own history, he will be revered throughout its 
annals as the founder of what has since become the State of Mis- 
sissippi. While it bore for him the charmed name of Louis- 



— 14 — 

iana, it is pleasing to us to know that he too knew it as the Mis- 
sissippi Country. 

And now a word as to your future as a particular section of 
our great commonwealth. The waters that wash these shores 
are teeming with historical associations and inspiring traditions. 
Such glories as color your past are sure to make you a world-wide 
influence. The Panama Canal opens up to you a new gate- 
way to the Pacific and the Orient and the commerce of the world 
is certain to include you in its grasp, and the captains of indus- 
try will look to you as one of the indispensable ports of the world. 
But giving these things full value in the story of your future, it 
in the irresistable charm of your history, enriched by a thousand 
romances of daring, constancy and courage, that fascinates the 
mind of those who study you and note in your present strength 
and achievement the subtle beauty of your past. 



H75 75 561 



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